THE WATCH SAYS IT’S 1pm, BUT THE SUN IS SETTING
The GPS says it’s 69º North. The thermometer shows it’s 20º below zero. In my native tongue – Hebrew, there’s a word for “cold”. There’s also a word for “Bitter cold”, but when things get really damn icy, there’s another expression, “Kor Klavim” – a “dog’s cold”. This linguistic trivia is quite surprising given the fact that Hebrew is a Semantic language from the Middle East, a place not known for dog sleds.
And yet, here we are, in Kiruna on the northern tip of Sweden. It’s Kor Klavim, and the dogs around are braking like they couldn’t have had enough of it. We’re, on the other hand, are freezing.
Thanks for asking.
Why are we here?
Because we paid to be here. That’s why. An average guy doesn’t get to Kiruna by chance. It’s either you come here to make money, or you’re here to give it away. We obviously belonged to the latter. Not that we were too sorry we did. The dogs certainly didn’t mind, nor did the Samis who piloted them.
They say Lapland is beautiful in summer. The brochure at the hotel shows pictures of emerald lakes surrounded by flowers, balmy trees, and clouds of mosquitos. Looking out the window, I see none of that. Just a bright white vastness dotted with few Rain Deers, Huskies, and Skidoo Snowmobiles. I came to know Lapland only in dead winter. I’m happy I did.
And as strange as it may sound, so should you. Just make sure to pack some thermal underwear before you venture north.
Dogs are indeed men’s best friends
They must be. Just try tying me to a sled along a bunch of other but-naked middle-aged men in the middle of the Nordic winter and see what happens. While there will be lots of emotions flying around, I can assure you none would be of enthusiasm. No so for dogs. They just couldn’t have been happier! Pulling total strangers in the middle of the Arctic winter? Bring’em on!
The only frustration they’re showing (quite loudly) is when they are ordered to stop. Now go figure.
In all seriousness, Riding a dog sled is an unforgettable experience. No matter how cold it is. No matter how hard the wind bites its way through the heavy overcoat. No matter how painful your ears get and how numb your toes are. The dog’s enthusiasm is contagious.
And soon enough you’re completely taken by their fervor and raw grit.
Now if only our family dog could have survived out in the “cold” winter nights of Tel Aviv…