BEHIND THE CURTAINS OF A RAJASTHANI WEDDING
We just stopped our bikes in the middle of a dusty road somewhere in the center of the mighty Thar Desert. This is Rajasthan. A place known for its dazzling colors, incredible palace cities, and harsh climate. Riding from Jodhpur to nowhere, the commotion in the poor tiny village seemed a bit out of place. Besides, we felt tired after two and a half hours on the dangerous (not to say totally crazy) open roads of northeastern India.
A comparably shiny new car parked next to one of the hamlets. A group of turban-clad, mustachioed men stood outside waiting for something. Behind them was a larger gathering of brightly dressed semi-veiled women, small kids and other folks who seemed interested in what was, or what was about to happen.
We dismounted our beat-up Royal Enfield 350 Bullit bikes, grabbed our cameras and joined in. This was a “Bidai” the last and final ceremony taking place after the wedding. In a Bidai the newly wed Bride is handed over by her now former family to the Groom’s family. She will from now on be a part of his family household.
Camera happy
It didn’t take more than five minutes before the folks invited us to take formal pictures. The Indians are simply fantastic when it comes to shooting photos. Always happy to pose and cooperate. Two minutes more and we were posing with them.
After about ten minutes of hobnobbing, we were taken inside the hamlet.
We didn’t know what to expect as we navigated some dimly-lit corridors into a small – yet beautiful blue inner court. There we were introduced to the ladies of the house all dressed in beautiful reddish garments and adorned with large golden nose rings. I asked for permission and took this picture.
Outside, this was just another poor hamlet in the middle of the big, beige, dusty desert. Inside, however, this was a psychedelic celebration of colors.
Generosity in the middle of nowhere
Our hosts then kindly asked us to join them to another room full of cushions where other family members already gathered anxiously to entertain us. We were fed with delicious pastries until we couldn’t eat anymore. They were as curious about us as we were about them. It didn’t take long before we embroiled ourselves in an engaging conversation.
We know Indian weddings are an elaborate and expensive affair, yet finding out how much this objectively poor family spent on the event shocked us . According to their account, the whole procession including dowry cost the equivalent of 15,000 US Dollars!
I have no idea how can one finance such a thing in rural India, nor why must the entire burden fall on the bride’s family alone. All I can say is that in their poverty they were generous, open, friendly and charming.
As we were about to depart we did our small share by contributing a modest sum as a gift. We then waved goodbye and drove on.
I cannot find this village on the map.
I don’t know their names.
Yet, I will never forget them.
Want to know more about Rajasthani weddings?
I believe you’ll find this blog very helpful.
Being to a rural Indian wedding? What was your impression?
Also, any idea why Rajasthanis paint their inner courts in Blue?