The hardest thing

6 REASONS WHY CLIMBING Mt. MERU SHOULD BE ON YOUR “BUCKET LIST”, AND 1 REASON WHY IT NEVER WILL

It’s 6am, 3 degrees south of the equator, and the sub-zero winds are beating hard. Tired, broken, and exhausted, I glimpse as the first orange rays of sun wash the peak of the mighty Kilimanjaro. I then slump breathless against a frozen rock crevice and pass out for 10 minutes.

Welcome to Mount Meru, voted as the most rewarding and scenic climb in Africa. While I don’t know much about that research, what I do know is that ascending Mt. Meru is the most beautiful climbing trek I’ve done in my life. Yeah, that simple. I also know that despite the above titles, almost no one will follow. Below are all the reasons why you should (and why you’ll never).

The facts

In 2014 I was the 19,237_th person to climb the 4,566 meter-high summit of Mt. Meru – the 5^th highest peak in Africa. That may sound much until you compare it to the more than 300,000 climbers that topped Mt. Kilimanjaro’s 5,895m Uhuru peak just 70Km to the east of Meru. And while climbing the mighty “Kili”, is frankly-put, quite boring (not unlike climbing a massive, endless mound of dirt), Climbing Meru, on the other hand, is an unforgettable experience. Ever since coming back from climbing both, I’ve tried to come to grips with the fact that the more rewarding road is also the one less traveled. It really shouldn’t be this way.
Here’s why:

Reason #1: The dramatic scenery

Not all mountains are created equal. Some – like the majestic Annapurna range in the Himalayas – form slowly over eons. Others – like the nearby Kilimanjaro – stand dormant for millennia.
Not Mount Meru!

 

This behemoth volcano is a keg of gun powder with a short fuse. It exploded several times before, the last happened 7,000 years ago. That particular blast blew to smithereens the entire top third of the mountain in a cataclysm that made Mt. Pinatubo’s 1990 explosion seem more like a firecracker in a Chinese New Year celebration. The result gutted the mountain leaving a huge 4Km-wide, 2.5Km deep caldera. If that wasn’t enough to impress, inside the caldera a new baby volcano is now sprouting (If you can call a 3,000 meter-high bubbling volcano a “baby”). It’s comforting to know this “little” Meru sibling has only last erupted in 1912. They say the next one is about 15 years overdue.

Climbing Mt. Meru is not for the faint-hearted. But it is highly rewarding. From the massively deep, moon-like crater in the center of it, to the razor-sharp giant rim that surrounds it, Meru is all about extremes. Compared to Meru crazy topography, nearby Kilimanjaro is no more than a boring endless mount of dirt (I should know, I climbed them both). And if all of that wasn’t enough, the view surrounding the giant crater rim would take your breath away (the altitude would too). More on that later.

Reason #2: The rich fauna and flora that covers it.

Take a dry East African Savana, then add elevation and sprinkle it with fertile volcanic soil, what would you get? In Meru’s case – an oasis like no other on Earth!

It begins right at the Arusha Park’s entrance – on the foothill’s of the main volcanic caldera – with a lush green game safari. Placed inside the remains of an earlier volcano. This very small area is home to a surprising variety of wildlife including elephants, buffalos, Giraffes, warthogs, baboons, reedbucks, Colobus monkeys, and duikers. This could have been the purpose of the whole journey, but in Meru’s case this is just the hors d’oeuvre. Something to stop by, take a few photos, and move on to the main climbing setoff point at Momela gate. The route upwards would take you through four different climate zones. All rich with wildlife, vegetation, and breathtaking scenery.

The journey upwards sets off at 1,500 meters above see-level with a semi-dry and mildly warm Mediterranean brush of olives, and palm trees sprinkled with tall grass and occasional lakes. Moving past the 2,000 mark and the forest abruptly changes into a true rain forest complete with huge Mahogany trees, giant Banyans, and lethal strangler figs. Mosses, ferns, lichens, and orchids thrive in the damp atmosphere leading all the way up to 3,000 meters.

Then yet another transformation happens, this time into cool forests of twisted Junipers, covered in a rich tapestry of hanging lichen, and shrouded in mist. Above 3,700, all you are left with is an alpine desert of short scrub and bare rocks. We also had snow that covered the area endowing this high altitude place with tundra-like qualities. In short, “you gotta see it to believe it.”

Reason #3: best views in Africa

In short, you can see Mt. Kilimanjaro from Meru. You cannot see Mt. Kilimanjaro from Mt. Kilimanjaro…

They say the three golden rules of real estate are “Location”, “Location”, “Location”, and when it comes to viewing Africa’s tallest peak, no one can compete with Meru. Situated only 70Km to the west, and perched above the clouds and the hazy blanket of pollution below, makes Meru the best, and clearest place to see Kili.

Reason #4: It’s a real, hard-core challenge – if you want it to be…

Getting to the top of Mount Meru was the most physically challenging thing I’ve done in my life. I’ve done some hard-core Army service and prepared myself physically yet, the last 150 meters climb would break the toughest of persons. It’s almost a vertical torture of bare rock climbing in biting cold air thin on oxygen.

I still remember gasping for air and fighting up every single meter while thinking “this must be what 80-something people feel like climbing stairs”. And it’s not like the rest of the final ascent was easy. As-a-matter of fact, It was hard, very hard.

Circumnavigating the razor-sharp rim of the main Meru crater in the middle of the night (which is what you need to do to get to the top at sunrise) is an arduous, never-ending task of navigating a terrifyingly narrow path full of bulders, debris, and slippery dirt. At least you cannot be scared by the gaping abyss. But don’t worry, you’ll have enough time to be scared descending back to camp in broad daylight. Shiver me timbers!!!

But you don’t have to take the hardest part to enjoy Meru. Climbing to the lower edge of the main crater rim in what is known as “Rhino Point”, will give you 80% of the effect – including all the grandeur of vistas – for less than 20% of the effort. At 3,800 meter elevation, It is only the last 750m climb from Rhino Point to the summit that will make you pray for mercy.

Reason #5: It’s easy to get there

It takes 10 days to get to the K2 base camp. 7 days to Everest’s. About two days to reach South America’s Aconcaguabase camp. And Meru? About 50 minutes drive from the gate of the Kilimanjaro International Airport. That’s it!

Perched on the outskirts of Arusha – a major hub city and the gateway to Tanzania’s world-famous game reserves – Mt. Meru is one of the easiest mountains to get to. Besides, Arusha has plenty of great hotels and lodges to rest your aching bones once you complete the trek. Trust me, you’d want to be spoiled like a decadent Roman Caesar and have everything brought to you. With half of your body muscles in a state of spasm, getting up of that comfy chair for some Gin and Tonic (or the nearby restroom) would hardly be a viable option.

For more Tanzanian adventures, click on one of the below posts:
7 essential tips to climb Kilimanjaro
On the spice route to Zanzibar
The most common rare bird
Killing your brunch

Reason #6: It’s refreshingly short

Compared to a substantial climb like this, the three and a half days of trekking up and down Mt. Meru are relatively quick and efficient. You’ll get to the park entrance on the morning of Day 1, spend the first night near the base of the large Meru crater. Day 2 will lead you up to a saddle near the crater rim where you’ll be expected to sleep the whole late afternoon and early evening hours. Summiting Mt. Meru will start at around 11pm in order to reach the summit (completely exhausted) at daybreak – Day #3.

After collapsing at the top, you’ll start the descent an hour later and reach the upper camp shy of noon. Short two hours of deep sleep later (you didn’t really sleep the afternoon before, so now you’ll be dead), and you’ll start your second descent back to the first camp at the crater base. Day 4 is a walk in the park (literally and figuratively) back to the park entrance and from there late lunch at your Arusha residence. All-in-all three and a half days of trekking superlatives. Compare it with anything between whole 6 to 8 days to complete Kili, and you’ll understand why Meru gives much more for much less. The whole ordeal would provide you with at least three more days to explore this area surrounding – or in other words – the best Safari reserves Africa has to offer.

But you wouldn’t.
Despite everything in its favor Mt. Meru will very likely be one mountain you will never climb!

Why?
Here’s why…

Reason #1 not to climb Mt. Meru: It’s not Kilimanjaro.

Mt. Meru. Might be the better, more beautiful, and inspiring trek. Still, only one out of 15 climbers to visit the area will climb it. The reason is as mundane as it is stupid – it’s not the tallest peak in Africa – Kili is. That’s the whole story.

People will always prefer to say they been on the very top of Africa rather than braving Tanzania’s 2^nd highest peak (and the 5^th highest in the continent). Meru just doesn’t have the same “X-Factor” – and the PR that comes with it – as its next-door neighbor. Since coming back from climbing both these mountains I have been approached numerous times for help and advice on how to best prepare for summitting Kili, Not Meru. I have recommended every single person that came for Kilimanjaro advice (and there have been many) to ditch Kili in favor of Meru, and if not, for the very least climb both. Nobody did, no matter how hard I tried to convince them. Perhaps, after all, THIS is the hardest thing.
I guess it’s their loss.

Would it be yours?