On the spice route to Zanzibar

SAILING ON AN ARAB BOAT THROUGH THE INDIAN OCEAN

Things are much less complicated in Zanzibar. You have a wooden sailboat, a crew of three, few snorkels that saw some seen better days, a clear, turquoise ocean and a few dolphins jumping around to boost. Simple.

The Middle East, on the other hand, is complicated. Everyone wants to throw everybody else to the ocean (figuratively, sometimes also literally). And while the Mediterranean is lovely in itself, it does not have, dolphins, riffs, and corals. Yes, things are mighty convoluted here in the Levant.

In Zanzibar, however, nobody wants to throw you overboard. You can throw yourself – if you like. We did throw ourselves at one point, though not while this specific picture was taken. I snapped this photo as we returned from a day of ocean safari in the reefs and islands just off the southwest coast of the famous Spice Island. The afternoon western breeze prompted the crew to open the main sail of the Arabian Dhow, shut off its noisy engine, and zoom along powered only by the elements. Sailing with the wind, and the waves, I was able to set my camera on long exposure creating a fluid almost dream-like image.

Dhow story

The wooden Dhow boats were used by the first Arab traders centuries ago. The merchants set off from the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula looking for slaves and spices on the coast of Eastern Africa.

These traders are gone now, but their boats are still here, and so is their religion. Zanzibarians are overwhelmingly Muslims – but luckily not of the Jihadist type. We were very safe while also being very openly Israelis. No issues there. Al hamd lillah.

my first visit to this small Eastern outpost of Tanzania was some 15 years ago when I landed for a diving safari with few other buddies of mine. I took the picture from a crumbling rooftop in Stonetown – Zanzibar capital. I was amazed that these ancient boats were still in use, doing the commercial run to the port of Dar El Salam on the other side of the Zanzibar Channel. Coming back 15 years later I was afraid that the impact of El-Qaida, ISIS, and other Jihadists group would wreck havoc on the mostly Muslim population of this beautiful island. I was happy to be wrong.

But things did change

Zanzibar is now much more explored and – as a result – have lost some of its exotic charms. You would not be trotting any uncharted areas over there. Everything to discover has already been found. Yet the scenery, food, and hospitality have remained as top notch as they were early last decade. At least now the land of spices is available via a direct flight.