The complete driver’s guide to the Austrian Alps

7 TIPS FOR DOING TYROL REALLY FAST plus 7 AMAZING ROADS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS

 “The hills are alive with the sound of music”.

In our case, it’s a live concerto for six cylinders and collection of some of the loudest exhaust music modern EU regulations allow. As we race our Boxters and supercharged F-Types from one bend to the other, the symphony that echoes from the surrounding mountains is as grand as that old Disney classic.

Tirol is Austria’s westernmost region and contains the country’s most striking and dramatic topography. Its ski slopes are world famous, its summer trails offer several of Alps’ best vistas and its restaurants beat almost anything available on the German side of the border (which – when thinking about it – really doesn’t say that much).

It also contains a very nice selection of striking driving roads. As a bonus, unlike the cracked neighbors from Switzerland, you wouldn’t get locked away and shot (no necessarily in that order) for making the most of the many driving pleasures available in the area.
But still, aren’t there better playing grounds?

To Schwartzwald or not to Schwartzwald?

Now that’s a good question. A few months ago I wrote the complete driver’s guide to the Black Forest where I described the place as the ultimate driving nirvana. I still stand by these words. And if you don’t believe me, you’re more than welcome to find out for yourself. Still, even the best of Pretzels can become a bore if you’re having it every day.

Let’s try a Schnitzel instead.
So here we are. Two Jag F-Type S, Two Boxters S.
What next?

Rules of engagement

To make the most out of Tirol you should consider abiding by a few rules and tips that help you complete your tour smiling and (hopefully) in one piece. Don’t worry, nothing too major. This is plain logic, not rocket science. With any luck, you might even make it back holding on to that precious piece of plastic we call “Driving License”.

I have listed these rules in great length in my previous post about the Black Forest. I’m supplying the abbreviated version below because I’m too lazy typing it all up again.

You shouldn’t be. Get the full version here.
With that said, let’s start with the most obvious yet frequently ignored tip.

Tip #1: Know what you’re doing

“So you’re driving on an unfamiliar public road in an unfamiliar rented car – what can go wrong?”…
Famous last quotes? You betcha!

Know and recognize your own limits as a driver BEFORE going imprinting your rubber sole one the gas pedal. Remember that you are driving on a public road – not a racetrack, and that each blind curve may hold a nasty surprise behind it. Get yourself familiarized with your vehicle’s handling dynamics and don’t let your ego write checks your skills can’t pay. Bear in mind that life insurance is good for your siblings. Not for you!

Tip #2: Don’t be a schmock!

Know the unwritten rules of the Tirol roads. Unlike the friendly folks over at the Schwartzwald, the Austrians are generally less hospitable to fast motorists. Don’t give them reasons to spite you even more.

You should drive slowly, quietly and carefully next to populated areas – and that also means stopping to let old ladies cross the road. Keep this important rule in mind; where there’s a senseless speed limit, a likely speed camera hides lurking.

Tip #3: Pick the car that’s right for you

Unless you’re driving over with your own car, renting one is not the dreary, boring, and awful thing it used to be. Most modern cars drive quite well (you’d be surprised what a lowly seven-seater Opel Zaphira can achieve).

Never the less if you are experienced enough or just have a knack for seriously fast cars, today’s ordinary mass rental companies offer some really interesting options. That catch is you’ll likely have to rent yours in Munich, Germany – so bring that into account.

Avis Prestige works in partnership with Porsche and will rent you a brand new, fully loaded 911 or even the smaller and more fun to drive 718 (Previously known as Boxter). Hertz has a similar program with Jaguar for the achingly beautiful and seriously fast F-Type. Sixt offers a wide range of mouth dropping BMW M cars. Make sure to book in advance. Also, check that the rental agreement includes an allowance clause to driving the car in Austria, or risk finding out your carefully planned road trip ends at the Zugschpitze.

Going exotic

Options above are just too mundane for you? Specialized small rental agencies would be happy to rent you some serious exotics. Be sure though to carefully read the fine print on the contract before signing, or you may find out the arm and leg you paid up front were just the beginning. No worries, you can always sell a Kidney or send your kids to work in the diamond mines of Central Africa.

Finally, what about some hot hatches? For some reason, these sensible fun alternatives are very hard to find.

Found one? Grab it!

Tip #4: Avoid High Summers and Mid-Winters.

Love to be backlogged behind an endless line of minivans piloted by tired, nerve-racked parents? Avoid July and August. Winters will bear similar frustrations (this time the minivans carrying ski equipment) plus blizzards, slit, and ice. No fun.

September & October are much better choices with relatively empty roads and an extensive selection of available B&Bs (Zimmers as they are known in German-speaking countries). End of April and May are excellent too. Early June is probably the ideal combining moderate congestion with open mountain passes.

Tip #5: Bring a Map. A REAL map

Remember those colorful paper things we used up to about a decade ago? It’s time to refresh your memory as no other mean of navigation delivers the same effective results. They are great at seeing the “big picture” and help you decide where to go. They also never fail you when cellular reception does (and it does. Some places suffer from very poor coverage). Besides, a decent one will only cost you 5 Euros in a nearby gas station. Don’t be cheap.

Now that you have a map, know how to use it.

First, look for yellow marked roads. These are the ones you want to focus on. Next, look for those house marks. Avoid roads where they are spread throughout the path, like the plague. It will mean you’ll be driving most of the time in urban mode (see tip #2).

Tip #6: Pay Austria’s highway toll upfront

Some countries believe that getting motorists from one place to another in a fast, safe and convenient way is a form of a basic and free public service. Germany took this concept one step further and gave humanity the Autobahns. Other countries view drivers as a source of income and tax them every few miles. France excels at has perfected in into a form of art called “find the highway slip”. Just try losing one of these endless pieces of paper you collect at tollbooths along your journey and find the true meaning of pain. Others are not interested in art – just your money.

Austria highway system has no toll booths. Instead, they have a highway sticker that should be bought in advance and installed in the vehicle BEFORE going on the motorway. The sticker itself is not expensive – just 8.5 Euros for ten days. The fine for not having it – is. The Austrian traffic
police will charge you 120 Euros for failing to have one. They do accept all major credit cards. How thoughtful of them. It is said that some gas stations carry these highway stickers. We recommend you find one as early as humanly possible. 

Tip #7: Things to do when conditions are just too crappy to drive.

Stormy day? Sorry mate, this is the Tirol. You’re pretty much Screwed. Go to Innsbruck and get sloshed. Speaking of the “S” word, other types of recreational activities also exist in the urban center of the region, but we’ll leave them to other types of blogs.

THE ROADS

Now, for the part you’ve all been waiting for; Tirol has some of the longest and most diverse driving roads this side of the continent. From navigating high-mountain passes to driving through low-lying valley paths, you’ll tackle both slow and technical tarmac, as well as zoom through fast (and occasionally scary) sweepers. You name it – they’ve got it!

 

To get, however, from one driving pleasure to another, you will need to tolerate long – sometimes frustrating – connecting sections. These normally contain lots of villages, traffic lights, and wretched speed-cameras. Not fun. While the Black Forest is all about non-stop action, Tirol will let you know, very clearly, when the fun stops and boredom begins. Make sure your rental plan is not too high on extra mileage.

Route #1 – The Tirol backdoor. Total – 34.2Km

Since you’ll likely be driving to Tirol from Munich, Germany (why? go back and read Tip #3 above), this would be your official gateway to Tirol. And what a wonderful gateway it is! Low-lying, wonderfully flowing tarmac with only one tiny village at the first quarter of the route. The rest is a joy of a road with some very impressive mountain and lake views – if you happen to care about those sort of things.

Despite the grand title, the ST2060 is really more of a backdoor to Tirol than a grand thoroughfare. Better this way – less traffic!
The flip side is that getting there will require you some basic navigation skills. Read the following carefully:

Getting there

The road starts at the junction of B23 and ST2060 on the German side of the border, and continues undisturbed for slightly more than 34Km until it reaches the small town of Reute on the Austrian side. To get to the ST2060 drive from Munich south on the E95 until it ends few Kilometers short of Garmisch. Continue towards that famous Bavarian resort and turn right to B23 when you reach the village of Oberau. Should you miss the turn to B23 and wind up in Garmisch, no sweat. Garmisch is an excellent stopover. Get a Wurst (pass on the beer) and backtrack your way about 9km to Oberau and the B23. Continue 5Km on B23 to the ST2060 junction where you’ll be turning left towards Reute.

Now, turn down the stereo, stretch your arms and legs, and prepare your fun glands…

Red Flags:

• Although it climbs hardly more than 300m, the ST2060 manages to be quite twisty for such a low-lying road. Overtaking opportunities are surprisingly rare. Try to avoid high traffic hours.
• If you do find yourself stuck behind a $#@% caravan for too long, consider stopping for a few minutes. Chances are very few cars – if at all – will pass during this time, leaving you with enough kilometers of empty tarmac to zoom through.

Route #2 – Hahntennjoch (HHH) Pass. Total 28Km

Don’t even try to pronounce the thing. Just drive it. HHH is one of Austria’s best driving roads in. Some even chose to include it among Europe’s 10 best.
Can’t blame them.

Getting There

Going southwest on the B198 from Reute, turn left just as you leave the village of Elmen and climb towards Boden. Take the hard left 10Km later Just before entering Boden and zoom your way to towards HHH all the 18Km up and down to Imst.

Hand it to the Austrians, they really love to throw their tax payers’ money around. HHH pass was clearly built with considerable investment and care – path, tunnels, tarmac – all are top notch. The thing is it connects two points of no real significance. As a result, the traffic over at HHH is as dense as that of a Whiskey Bar in an ISIS-controlled town. We have been through HHH few times and hardly encountered more than an occasional car and few brave cyclists.

The route

From Elmen the road rises moderately through forest and pasture going through a couple of tunnels and navigating the sort of fast zig-zag that makes us love driving so much. After turning left near Boden the path becomes more narrow and challenging with hairpins and some serious vertical drops just off the shoulder-less tarmac.

From the top of the pass at around 1,900m, the road continues down through an open and barren landscape. This section is made of fast bends interrupted every now and then by a series of sharp curves – few of them are literally carved into the mountain wall. Driving there reminded me a scene from The Lord of The Ring. You’re more than welcome to provide your own analogies. Once in Imst, stop for a Strudel while your brakes cool down (they will be smoking, guaranteed). Once both you and your car are refreshed, do the entire route backward.

Red Flags:

HHH Pass is truly an unforgettable experience. It manages to be both exhilarating AND nerve wracking. The difference between the two really goes down to the position of the person. As a front seat passenger, HHH is easily the scariest driving experience I have ever had. Period.

For the most parts, the road has no shoulders, no safety barriers, and is lined with sheer drops of the kind that would make it hard for your relatives to identify your remains. Of course, when I was doing the driving I could hardly care about the guy sitting next to me. The road was too much fun to be distracted by such trivialities (“oh, you’ve just wet your pants, buddy? Stop whining and change your diapers!).

Now seriously, this road is dangerous. Drive with care or make the road back home in an Urn.

Route #3 – Top of Europe. Total – 26.3Km

“It’s all about timing”. This particular road is a classic example of the age-old cliché. A good friend of mine swears that the drive he had up the 2,750 meters of the Kaunertal Glacier Road is one of the best driving experiences of his life. It could have been completely different though…

The road

The Glacier road starts at a tollgate, where the village of Feichten ends. After clearing the gate, the road runs through a nice winding path at the bottom of a narrowing Alpine valley for 7Km before reaching the Kaunertal High Dam. Few quick hairpins will lead you to the top of the dam and to additional 6Km of relatively straight road on the eastern shore of the reservoir.
Where the reservoir ends, the real fun begins – 11Km and 1,000 vertical meters climb of endless twists and turns. A road so beautiful only matched by the staggering view outside – leave the vista to your co-pilot, will you!?

The road ends at a high car park where you could catch your breath (the air is very thin up there).

Timing is everything

Going back to my good friend from two paragraphs above, it is important to note he did the Kaunertal when the road was empty.
And so did I.  :-))

Come there at the wrong time, however, and you’ll curse all 26.3Km of it (and probably also the 50Km of useless detour you’ve made just to get to its starting point). All it takes is a bit of traffic.

The Kaunertal Glacier is a year-round ski resort. That means:

1. It’s high. In fact, it is one of the five highest roads in the entire Alps.
2. It’s open when all other “high” passes are still closed (The Kaunertal is significantly higher than most of them).
3. It’s in use by quite a lot of skiers that have no other place to go after the winter ski resorts closed down.
4. Get there at the wrong time and you’ll be in a world of traffic pain.

Consumer tip

Get there late. Very late. After all skiers have packed up and went home. We got to the bottom gate just after six. Not that we were smart, or had any prior knowledge. We just happened to stumble upon it after a full frustrating day of futile Alpine driving. After a quick glance at the map (Tip #5!) we figured “what the heck. Let’s try this one too”. Just make sure the place looks deserted before climbing up.

Red Flag:

The Kaunertal Glacier Road is monitored by park rangers. One of them stopped our car and yelled his lung out about us driving his place like it was the Nurburgring (his words exactly). As a full disclosure, we did take the hairpin completely sideways just as he was parked with his car on the opposite lane. I guess you can say we had this one coming…

 Route #4 – False Pass. Total 24Km

The high Alpine passes are on the list of every motoring enthusiast. As I wrote numerous times before, these famous passes tend to over promise and under-deliver. They are open only few months during summer and are often too crowded to enjoy, too short to appreciate and too far from most points of interest to be done “on the way”. In short, a hassle not worth perusing. That doesn’t mean we didn’t try to pursue it anyway…

Trying out the Timmelsjoch

For that matter, we chose the Timmelsjoch Pass just off the ski resort of Solden. We drove the whole 40 something kilometers of the B186 only to discover that at late May the Timmelsjoch was still closed.
Rats!!

Not having anything better to do (and frustrated by the thought of driving back the whole 40Km of the boring B186), we opened a map and tried to find an alternative route.

The route

From the B186, just before the ascent to Timmelsjoch, turn right to Vents (road L240). Drive all 13Km to Vent, where the road ends and where you turn back. When you meet the B186 again, turn right and climb up towards Timmelsjoch (in what is essentially a dead end). When you reach the toll booth, Turn back (feel free to do so while leaving a nice “doughnut” mark – there’s plenty of space), and drive down towards Solden.

The road to Vent is a narrow and twisty path made of some very nice tarmac. It winding its way through the high Alpine valley in a series of half tunnels, and between sheer cliffs until it ends in the small ski town. Once you’re back on the B186 towards Timmelsjoch the road becomes wide, steep and curvy – a beautiful and fast mountain climb all the way to the toll-booth.

By the end of May, the whole section after Solden is pretty much deserted. The ski towns are shut, the pass to Italy is still closed, and you get the road to yourself. Voila! 

Route #5 The Innsbruck express. Total – 30.2Km

Sure, the A12 highway may get you to the capital city of Tirol faster. But since you probably didn’t find a gas station selling those damn stickers, this road will get you there almost as fast and with a smile so wide your head might get unhinged and fall backward. The route – L237/L13 (road number changes midway) – runs parallel to the main valley thoroughfare, on top of the mountain range to the south.

The first part of the L237 contains a series of moderate slopes connected by steep twisty climbs. In winters this place is crowded with skiers but by late April they are all gone, and you have the road almost entirely to yourself. Coming from the west, you’ll climb through woodland up to a 2,000m pass and then zoom down through a very fast high-grass route full of semi tunnels until you reach the bottom and the western outskirts of Innsbruck. Once down, just turn around. It’s fun both ways (under no circumstances was there any pun intended!).

A nice addition to the route lies about half way from Oetz to the top. That’s where Road L307 meets the L237 and offers a very interesting detour. L307 is an 11Km climb from the Inns valley below. after covering 1,000 vertical meters it ends when it meets the L237 at the top. Drive the L237 fast enough and you might miss it altogether. A narrow and steep hill climb, the L307 leaves very little margin for error. Avoid when conditions are not perfect. Don’t miss when they are.

Getting there

While driving east towards Innsbruck on the main A12 motorway, or the parallel route B171, turn south to B186 (direction Solden). After about 14/16km – just as you leave the village of Oetz – turn left to L237. Ride it all the way up to the Kuthai Pass and down to Sellrain. If you’re coming from Innsbruck, turn left from the A12/B171 at the junction with B177 and head towards L13 – direction Kematen. Head straight up. Try to make it all the way down on the other side while maintaining all car and body parts intact.

Red Flags:

While climbing up the pass from the west is relatively a straightforward business, descending it eastward through the open grassland and the fast bends can become an exercise in some seriously fast motoring. Make sure not to exceed your driving capabilities and always look far ahead to prevent any unpleasant last minute surprises.

The bottom eastern section of the route is full of “half tunnels” where visibility ahead could be occasionally compromised. Bring that into account and avoid unnecessary overtaking. 

Route #6 – “Telfsring”. Total – 24.9Km

As the name suggests, this 25Km circular “course” starts and ends just above the town of Telfs, on the western outskirts of Innsbruck. You can do the roundabout late on the afternoon, stop at one of the small road restaurants for a beer with a view, and still make it in time for dinner in the city center.

What makes the Telfsring special is the multiple types of driving “stages” that make up this rather compact route. The “ring” starts where Telfs ends with a steep 500m vertical climb towards Moserer. There, the action takes a short backseat as you commute about 5 urban Kilometers to Seefeld (remember Tip #2?). Once out of Seefeld a very nice flat wooded section will take you for another 5Km to the small village of Weidach. Clear Weidach, turn left and continue on the 2nd part of the ring back to Telfs. Ride the open country road as it snakes its way between small farmhouses for another 4Km. At that point, the road will enter the woods and begin to bend sharply in what can only be described as a mini Rally stage.

6Km later you’ll find yourself close to where you started with an option to go straight for another round, turn back and do the ring clockwise, or call it a day, turn right at the junction and drive towards Telfs.

Now, if everything in life was this simple.

Route #7 – Der Schwartzwalder. Total – 18.6Km

As the tradition goes, I saved the best for the last. A true Black Forest driving stage that will make you come back for more!

Getting there

From the B198 leading out of Reute, turn left at the village of Stanzach and drive towards Rinnen. To start on the other side, drive the B179 south from Reute and turn right towards Stanzach at the village of Bichlbach. The 7Km from Bichlbach to Rinnen are a very nice drive too, but the real fun starts once you leave Rinnen behind.

This particular 18km stretch is the Austrian road we felt best resembles the ones you find over in Germany’s Schwartz Wald.
And that’s a good thing. A very good thing!

Unlike almost all the roads mentioned above, this one traverses a relatively flat gradient. With no major mountains to climb and decent, the wooded section is all about driving flow – from one curve to another. It has everything an enthusiast can wish for – technical twists, fast sweepers, great visibility, and very thin traffic. Speaking of traffic, much of it belongs to other fellow enthusiasts on two and four wheels.
Driving nirvana? Pretty much close to it.

If you started out at Rinnen, the road will open up and end at a very nice Café on the outskirts of Stanzach. After few roads (you would want to do few rounds), this would be a perfect place to give you and your car a rest.

Red Flag:

Be careful, The Schwartzwalder is dangerously addictive.

That’s it for now.

Any road we missed?
Any additional comments or tips?

The comment section below is at your service