8 things to do in Vancouver

WHEN IT’S SUNNY!

Vancouver is known for many things – natural beauty, excellent cuisine, laidback atmosphere, and mild temperatures (compared to the rest of Canada, that is). One thing Vancouver is not known for is its bright skies. With only 155 days registering “measurable sunshine” per year, the 2.6 million city and suburbs are about the darkest place in North America. Yes, Whithourse is even darker, but good luck finding it on the map. So, it was with some relief that we found ourselves swimming in sunshine, not rain, while visiting town – two years in a row!

Was it luck, or perhaps an under-the-table fat bribe to the goddess of fortune? Well, stick around and find out.

The first time

To be fully transparent, the first time I visited Vancouver was way back in 1985. My parents took us on a family vacation to the Canadian Rockies. The impression was arguably fabulous as forty years later, I decided to repeat the ordeal, this time dragging along my own wife and siblings.

In 2024, we concluded an extensive family road trip in Vancouver, starting in San Diego, California. I should probably write a post or two about that road trip in the future. Hit the “subscribe” button to be the first to know when it’s done. This year (2025) will be the third time I visit town

Vancouver may seem like a small outpost on the far corner of southwestern Canada. A secluded and exotic hamlet, forgotten by time. A place where local gold excavators pass time through the harsh winters, at the only open 365-day Bar. A tiny economy held afloat by the rich Salmon catch and the occasional anchor of a passing Cruise Ship. Well, if you’re into this stuff, better go to Ketchikan, Alaska. Vancouver is as far from this as a Hermes Birkin is from a Patagonia Hoody.

While Sydney may have warmer winters, San Francisco has better tech, and Rio has nicer beaches, no city I know possesses such an intoxicating combination of stunning natural setting and sophisticated vibe. Consider me a Vancouver groupie. You would too. And if you happen to be in town, like me, with Blue Skies burning your neck, these are the 8 things you should do!

1. Ride a bike around Stanley Park

Start at the northeast end of Denman Street. Pass the car park on the left and take a left onto the bike lane. Continue pedaling, keeping to the right and encircling the Park counterclockwise for 9km. End where you started.

Occupying the northwestern half of Vancouver’s downtown peninsula lies the city’s most obvious attraction. Measuring 405 hectares, Stanley Park is not just bigger than Central Park; it is way wilder and more beautiful. Unlike other city parks, though, Stanley is not a creation of careful urban planning and pruning. Excluding the local city aquarium and the numerous walkways, much of it remains as densely forested as it was in the late 1800s. With about half a million old-growth trees, some of which are massive behemoths rising more than 75 meters tall, the place doesn’t just look like Vancouver did before white settlers arrived – IT IS how the place looked several hundred years ago. All of this, mind you, is just a stone’s throw away from downtown’s glass skyscrapers.

But it isn’t what’s inside the park you should care about. The “real deal” is taking the route around it. No other urban park I know offers such a stunning journey. Partly because the city’s setting is like no other, and partly because the well-designed bike route has one of the best locations to appreciate it.

We rented an electric-assisted bicycle at our hotel (but you can really rent them almost anywhere) and went on an iconic ride around. The circular route is about 9km long – yes, Stanley is big – and should take an average bicyclist about an hour to complete. Only it will not. At least not the first few times around. The sites and views are all show stoppers. You’ll be lucky to come back in two, maybe three hours if you want to (and, rest assured, you will) take your time to suck it all in.

Beginning at the southeast entrance, the route will take a counterclockwise path from the Vancouver Rowing Club. It features a grand view of downtown Vancouver before moving on to the next stop, Brockton Point. The most easterly part of Stanley Park is home to a century-old lighthouse and several hand-carved totem poles. This is the best spot to appreciate North Vancouver and the towering mountains above it, both lying on the other side of the Vancouver Bay. This is also where you would first glimpse the 1.8km-long Lion Gate Bridge. The massive 90-year-old suspension link runs through the park and connects Downtown to North Vancouver on the other side.

Next, a quick peddling will take you just beneath the bridge for a photo opp against its 110m-high towers. With more or less half the route completed, it’s time to get to the rougher and most striking part of Stanley – the Seawall. This unique manmade feature was created to protect the perimeter of Stanley Park from wave erosion by passing ships. This narrow pathway, tucked between steep rocks and the gushing waves of the Burrard Inlet, accommodates (uneasily) both bikes and pedestrians. It features the steeper, rockier, and wilder side of the Stanley, so wild that, save for the passing ship going in and out of the nearby Vancouver Bay, you would never guess you were in the middle of a busy metropolis. Perfect!

Unfortunately, the narrow pathway and busy afternoon traffic made stopping difficult. After breathing in the spectacular scenery for a few short seconds, we continue to our next stop – Third Beach. Yes. You heard it right. Vancouver has a beach. As a matter of fact, it has a few, surprisingly well-groomed, beaches. I’ll get back to them in item #2. But for now, let’s continue along the seawall, pass the spectacularly large Second Beach swimming pool, take a left on North Lagoon Drive, passing the large Lost Lagoon, and end the journey pretty much where we started. One item done, seven more to go.

2. Be a beach bum

Third Beach is accessible via the Stanley Park Seawall. Second Beach, further down the Park Seawall near the Second Beach Pool. English Bay Beach, accessible where Beach Avenue meets Denman Street.

You wouldn’t think of rainy Vancouver as a site for sandy beaches. But it is. And better at that than any other northern city in the world. Now, before you jump with your experiences at Chicago, Toronto, or San Sebastian, please note that Vancouver is geolocated way North than any of these. North of Montreal, Boston, and Quebec City. North even to frigid St. Paul, Newfoundland. Dutch readers will correctly note that at 52 degrees north, Scheveningen Beach near The Hague, is in fact a bit north of Vancouver’s. To that, I would say that Scheveningen Beach is not smack in the epicenter of any town, let alone a major city.

Vancouver has several great beaches, all neatly aligned near Downtown. Third Beach is on the far side of Stanley Park; Second Beach is on the southwestern entrance to the park. English Bay Beach and Kitsilano are located on the two opposing sides of the entrance to False Creek. All are within walking distance of the city center.

We stop late afternoon at Third Beach and join the throngs of partying locals dancing to the sound of drums and darboukas. The air is warm-ish, the sun shines hard-ish, and everyone is having the time of their lives. With all the greenery around and so many locals inside the water, one might mistake the scene for a beach party in Koh Pangahn (recreational drugs will help). Just be sure not to jump in too quickly. Water temperatures are only about 15° centigrade (about 60°F). Swimming in the massive, popular, and heated open pool near Second Beach would be a better fit for your shorts and Bikinis.

3. Hang around the Public Market at Granville Island

Insert “Granville Island Public Market” on your Google Maps and let the app guide you there. Alternatively, take the Granville Ferry across False Creek from Hornby Street station. It is open every day from 9 am to 6pm.

So, you’re done with cycling around the Park and freezing your butt off in the Burrard Inlet’s waters, and down for some chow. The Public Market at Gransville Island will get your fix ready in no time! Traditional Bagle? Lobster Roll? Smoothie shake? Fish Tacos? Falafel? Just name your poison. The bonus? Spectacular views of downtown across the narrow False Creek inlet.

The once gritty and industrial hub of Granville Island (which, to be fair, isn’t really an island) has been turned over the years into a gentrified center of shopping and dining. Many other former skid rows have undergone a similar transformation – from NYC’s Meatpacking District to Miami’s Wynwood. This one, however, is on the waterfront and better done. Down for some Poppy-coated Bagel with a schmeer of Lox? There’s no better place than Siegle’s, right in the middle of the main roofed market. If you’re still left hungry, plenty of other great choices are available right next to it inside the market and around the small “island”. Someone told us of a great Lobster eatery nearby, so with a craving for decapods’ meat, we went out to find it, and hit the Jackpot!

Down Duranleau Street, just off the main Public Market building, there’s a tiny shop of wonders called Lobster Man. The store is on a side alley and easy to miss. Use a foot navigation app to get there. The place has everything that swims and isn’t a fish (or, god forbid, a mammal). After exploring the shop, we head next door to the tiny eatery for some great Lobster and Crab rolls. The place isn’t much. A basic counter takes the order, served in a takeaway box. A few cheap-looking wooden tables and scattered folding chairs underneath a parasol are available for eat-ins. We licked our fingers clean and wished we were hungrier.

Vancouver, however,  isn’t just about cheap thrills. Its culinary scene can rival anything out there.

Continue to Chapter 4

4. Consume Pacific Northwest’s best Haute Cuisine.

The Botanist. Inside the Fairmont Pacific Rim. 1038 Canada Place. fairmontpacificrim.com. +1 604-695-5437

Masayoshi. 4376 Fraser St. www.masayoshi.ca

Located on the western fringe of Canada, Vancouver has been a magnet for immigrants from all over the world, and especially from Asia. And while some tensions exist over housing prices and resource allocation, the local culinary scene has only gained from the city’s increased diversity. Local chefs from various origins have created a culinary scene that few other cities can hope to rival. Local restaurants offer menus that successfully blend the diverse cooking traditions and techniques with the very best ingredients provided by the great Pacific Ocean nearby. Don’t believe me? Just ask the Michelin Guide, which includes 76 Vancouver restaurants in its latest review, far outnumbering other major cities such as Chicago and Los Angeles.

While I cannot attest to having visited all of them (not even close), I found two establishments worthy of your (Canadian) Dollars. Speaking of which, the local Dollar equals about 70 US cents. Yes. Eating well in Canada will only cost you an arm (you can keep the leg to pay for your restaurant tab in California). So, of the five or so restaurants we did visit, here are my top two.

The Botanist
(https://www.botanistrestaurant.com)

The Botanist is situated on the 2nd floor of the grand Fairmont Pacific Rim hotel, where the local gentry dine and wine. As you may expect, the decor is top-notch, and the service is impeccable. But you’ll forget these as soon as the first plate reaches your table. According to Chef Hector Laguna, Botanist menus depict the culinary abundance and botany of the region. Including produce rooted “from the soil of the Northwest, sustainably sourced seafood, and organic agricultural methods from backyard suppliers”.

I haven’t confirmed the claim, but whether it was a Cream of Oyster reduction, a juicy Pacific Halibut, or a salad of Caviar on a crisp with a base of grapefruit sorbet, every single course was a masterpiece. We picked one of the two tasting menus, which included five courses plus an amuse-bouche opening, all innovative, all exquisite. Michelin guide recommends The Botanist but awards it no stars. I find this puzzling, as our personal experience exceeded pretty much any Michelin one-star restaurant we ever visited. Give it a Dan’s two-star, then. It’s worth it!

Masayoshi
(https://www.masayoshi.ca)

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Vancouver has more Japanese restaurants per person than any other city outside of the land of the rising sun. After all, with so many Japanese immigrants and a steady supply of North Pacific fish, why wouldn’t it? And while I cannot guarantee that Masayoshi is the best in town, I can say it is the best one I have had, and by a mile, outside of Japan.

Placed in “Vancouver’s burgeoning Fraserhood” – a euphemism for one of the city’s most rundown, shut-down, and plain scary neighborhoods – Masayoshi is as close as one can get to a personal invite for a friend’s dinner. A Japanese friend with a Michelin Star, that is.

Trained in Japan, Chef Masayoshi moved to Canada two decades ago and has since continued his journey to Sushi excellence. The Japanese master pioneered an exceptionally unique, hyper-seasonal, and innovative experience. We booked a spot at his tiny, 20-seat restaurant on Fraser Street between 27th and 28th avenues and arrived at the designated time to find the place had gone missing!

Parking our car right in front of the address, we could see nothing but a derelict street with boarded-up shops, run-down squats, and general neglect. Not quite a zombie apocalypse (this IS Vancouver, after all), but certainly not a place you’d want to hang out with your family at 8pm looking for a Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant. Anxious and not having any other real options, I called the restaurant to ask for directions. The waitress’s explanation pointed to the fact that we were at the right place. “It looks like we’re at the right place”, I answered, “but I can’t find anything”. “Don’t worry”, the voice on the other side replied, “I’m coming out”. She appeared, a few seconds later, from one of the closed shops, which, after careful observation, did have a tiny “Masayoshi” sign on its door.

Masayoshi’s Speakeasy vibe continues inside with a simple, almost Spartan, interior hosting a bar, a few small tables, and about 15 other diners waiting to start. Clearly, Masayoshi is not aiming at The Botanist milieu. Masayoshi’s place is an “Omakase” – a Japanese dining experience where diners entrust the selection of dishes to the chef. “I leave it up to you” – style. The fixed dinner is a multi-course meal served to all diners simultaneously and showcases seasonal, high-quality ingredients and the chef’s culinary skills.

Only then did I realize the other 15 guests were all waiting for us for the ceremony to begin. Apprehensive of our impact on the other guests, we apologized and quickly took our place at the bar. With Masayoshi on the other side of the bright pine counter, armed with a sharp set of knives and a small army of helpers, the magic then commenced.

I’m not a restaurant critic, and I’ve only worked as a sous-chef for a short period back in the 90s. But I do know a great master when I see one, and Masayoshi-san definitely is. Each of the ten courses – all served for everyone at the same time – was a delight. A perfect mix of form, texture, and taste. You think you’ve seen everything sushi has to offer? Visit Masayoshi. It will change your mind. Guaranteed!

Happy and content, let your gut process the calories while you’re out for some excursions.

5. Head up Grouse Mountain.

Cross the Lion Gate Bridge to North Vancouver and drive up Capilano Road all the way to Grouse Mountain Parking. Take one of the two gondolas available to the top – about 6 minutes each way (prices vary by season) or, hike your way up – about 2.5 hours, 2.5km route climbing 800 vertical meters.

A short 20-25-minute drive from downtown and towering 1.2km above it, Grouse Mountain is the best place to see Vancouver from above. And what a sight it is! Clear days will not only offer a birdseye view of the entire Vancouver metropolitan area beneath but extend the view as far as distant Vancouver Island and Olympia Park on the other side of the Canada/US border.

While you can save the cost of the gondola ticket by hiking your way up from the parking lot, one of the two available gondolas is the way to go. If you are, however, into sweating your calories away by climbing more than 2,800 steps to the top or just came back from climbing Mt. Meru, feel free to ignore my previous recommendation and keep your change.

On the other side of the gondola, you’ll find a selection of eateries from a snack bar to a full-blown restaurant, complete with a viewing deck (crap food, but fantastic view). You’ll also find a fully equipped ski resort complete with 7 ski lifts and 33 runs. The ski season on Grouse Mountain starts just before Thanksgiving and lasts till mid-April. I guess this makes Vancouver the only city on earth to have both a beach and a ski resort within city boundaries. Cool!

Skiing dreams aside (This is July, remember?), the place doubles as a summer attraction. Live lumberjack shows entertain the throngs of kids and their accompanying parents. A short, and painfully slow, chairlift transports others to the mountain peak. From there, a short path leads to a massive wind turbine and spectacular views over the rest of the Cascade mountain range, including distant 4.4km-high Mt. Renier far to the south.

Dismounting Grouse presents the visitor with three very different options:

1. Take the boring route via the gondola.
2. Hike your way down, which, while not as physically exhausting as climbing up, still requires ankle-high trek boots and a good set of knees. Those damn 2,800 steps will take their toll on your joints, so be prepared.
3. If you’re into breaking every bone of your body, downhill bike routes are available. Judging by the number of locals who take their downhill bikes up on the gondola, Vancouver hospitals must be very good.

Now that we’ve covered all the essential in-town attractions, it’s time to venture out. Lucky for us, Vancouver’s location offers many getaways. We had time to try only two, but these two are a must!

6. Drive the Sea to Sky Highway.

Take route 99 from Downtown Vancouver (where it’s also called West Georgia Street), and across the Lions Gate Bridge. Continue on the same route towards Whistler for another 60km until you reach Squamish. Multiple stops on the way.

Whistler is a world-famous ski resort and the largest in North America. Based just an hour and a half off Vancouver, its accessibility and size make it a major winter attraction. In summer, however, it is the road to Whistler, and not the resort, that is the main attraction. You will need a car and about half a day to fully enjoy it. In return, you’ll get one of the most beautiful pieces of tarmac ever created. Seriously, the Sea-to-Sky Highway will take your breath away, guaranteed.

Starting at Hourseshoe Bay, just out of Vancouver city limits, and running along the eastern banks of the Howe Sound, the road features expansive views of exceptional beauty. Driving northwards is to be consumed by the rich pine forest on the right and the deep blue sea on the left. Just to let you know, keeping your focus on the road will be a challenge.

The route is roughly divided into two parts. The first one, from Hourseshoe Bay to Squamish, hugs the waterline of the Sound (which is more of a fjord, really). The second – from Squamish to Whistler – climbs up the valley that splits the coastal mountain range in two, ending just after Whistler. This part is known for its rugged cliffs and rainforests, and, of course, for Whistler itself. We initially planned to do both parts, but with the many stops and attractions on the way, we managed only the first, before turning back at Squamish. Well, I guess this means we’ll have to come back…

Sea to Sky Highway is famed for its beauty, but, surprisingly, has very few designated pull-offs. Experiencing it means you’ll need to make the most of the few stops on its way. We stopped at four locations – two on the way to Squamish, and another two on the way back.

Shanon Falls

2km before Squamish, turn right and park at the Shanon Falls parking. Free admission.

This 335-meter-high waterfall is the third tallest in British Columbia and closest to Vancouver. A ten-minute hike will lead you from the park’s entrance through the gushing Shanon Creek to the waterfall’s base. Those with time on their hands can hike the Sea to Summit Trail to reach the top end of Shanon. Being the lazy bums that we are, we chose to skip the physical challenge and move to the next stop, just around the corner.

Sea to Sky Gondola

Exit Shanon Falls parking and continue towards Squamish for another 750m. Turn right and park at the Sea to Sky Gondola car park. Alternatively, take the walking path from Shanon Falls to the gondola base, which is about 10-minute walk. 72 Canadian Dollars for a round-trip ticket.

The 2km gondola line ends at the top platform about 900m above sea level, and takes less than 10 minutes to reach. The views of the Howe Sound below and surrounding snow-capped mountains are jaw-dropping. This alone is worth the entire trip.

The top viewing platform also offers a cafeteria (but of course) and access to a neat 95m long suspension bridge. The brochure says the bridge was designed to accommodate both wheelchairs and strollers. But, based on our experience at close to optimal conditions, I wouldn’t recommend anyone with a wheelchair or a stroller to give it a try. Every step rocks the entire construction, and every mild breeze swings it from one side to another. If you are afraid of heights or easily scared of inherently unstable surfaces, heed my advice and stick to the solid viewing platform. If, however, these sorts of things get you going, go ahead and enjoy the experience. We did!

The other side of the bridge offers another spectacular viewing platform and access to numerous hiking trails, including one that leads back to the parking lot.

Porteau Cove Beach

About 19km south of Squamish, going to Vancouver, turn right at the Porteau Beach Provincial Park sign. Continue on the side road for another 200m. Park your car on the pier.

The small park on the side of the road encloses camping facilities, a wide beach strewn with dead tree trunks, and a large boat jetty that doubles as a parking lot. There are several such parks along the way back to the city. We picked out this one by pure chance. While we chose not to dip in the cool 20-degree waters of Howe Sound, many others did. We were also surprised to see quite a few divers. We didn’t know then that the Cove is a popular scuba diving site, complete with an artificial reef and two sunken vessels. With reported visibility of about 10m, diving Porteau Cove would be worth experiencing next time. For now, though, we settle for breathing in the gorgeous views and move on to our next stop.

Point Atkinson Lighthouse

On Highway 99 going south, take exit 4 for Headland Dr. Continue south for about 3km until you reach the parking of Lighthouse Park. From there, a walk of about 1km (about 15-20 minutes) through the woods will lead you to the lighthouse. Free admission.

Point Atkinson peninsula juts into the Burrard Inlet on the westernmost outskirts of the city. It offers a great late afternoon look over Vancouver and the Cascade volcanoes behind it. To reach the lighthouse, you’ll first need to park your car about a kilometer up the trail at the entrance to the Lighthouse Park. From there, a walking path takes you through a beautiful stretch of dense rainforest all the way to the rocky outcrops and the Atkinson Lighthouse.

The current lighthouse structure is about a century old and is still active, although now, completely automated. If you’re into lighthouse photography, go ahead. Otherwise, enjoy the breathtaking view of the city skyline, and drive back downtown for a well-deserved dinner.

7. Take a flight to Victoria for a whale watching tour.

Book a package tour that includes a flight to Victoria and a whale-watching tour on the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Flights leave from Vancouver Harbour Flight Center, enclosed inside the Vancouver Convention Center. Prices vary by operator and season. Alternatively, take a two-hour ferry to Victoria and continue from there.

This is “The Big Kahuna”. Three amazing experiences bundled into one. True, it wouldn’t win the award for best value. But then, getting all the way up to distant Vancouver isn’t cheap either. Is it worth the substantial price? You betcha!

The full-day itinerary starts at around 7:30am and finishes around 6pm. It includes four distinctive parts:

1. Seaplane flight above Vancouver to Victoria
2. 3 hours whale watching tour on the straits of Juan de Fuca
3. Free time to explore Victoria City
4. Seaplane flight back to Vancouver.

Seaplanes are ingenious. Just think about it. You don’t need to find an enormous piece of flat land, spend millions building an airport, and runways. Not to mention paving expensive highways to access urban areas. Instead, all it takes is a pier smack in the center of town, and calm waters of a well-protected bay. As I said, ingenious!

Seeing those seaplanes take off and land on the placid waters of Vancouver Harbour, we collectively decided not to leave town before trying them out.

Harbour Air is one of two airlines operating out of Vancouver Hourbor Flight Center to various locations around Vancouver Island, Whistler, Upper British Columbia, and Seattle. Their easy-to-navigate website offers various flights and packages. We picked a two-way tour to Victoria on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, combined with a whale-watching tour. You might be able to save some cash by booking separately. We, on our part, didn’t want to take any risk with places we’ve never been to before.

Having never flown a seaplane, we arrived at the Harbour Air Check-in counters at the designated time. The offices are located on the 2nd floor of the Vancouver Convention Center, just below the popular harbour-front boardwalk and a stone’s throw from the seaplane jetty.

When our time came, we stepped out and boarded the small 14-passenger De Havilland Otter seaplane, taking our seats next to the big, wide side-windows. After a short safety brief from our pilot (“I’m also your air stewardess”, he said), we buckled up as he fired up the 720hp single turboprop engine and slowly navigated us towards “the runway”. With the engine running at full throttle, the small De Havilland accelerated like a rock out of a slingshot, taking off after not more than 300 meters. The whole experience left us quite breathless, and that was before we gazed outside to appreciate the scenery.

I’ve written before about the beauty of Vancouver. Observing it from above, however, is a whole different experience. Only through an airborne perspective can you truly appreciate the geographical settings in which this grand city is nestled. Mountains, inlets, and fjords spread beneath, framing downtown’s shiny glass towers with an intoxicating mix of verdant vegetation and vivid deep blue sea. After circling the Vancouver Harbour and flying over the Lions Gate Bridge, the pilot veers the plane left, direction southwest, towards Victoria.

Flying over the Straits of Georgia that separates the Canadian mainland from Vancouver Island (The city of Vancouver is on the mainland, the city of Victoria is on Vancouver Island. I know, confusing), it is easy to spot Olympia Park’s snow-capped mountains, and the Volcanic Cascade range on the US side of the border. As we near our final destination and descend, the ocean views give way to the big Island of Vancouver (About the size of my home country, Israel, or New Jersey, for those unfamiliar with Middle Eastern geography). Deep fiords and long inlets dissect the land, making the ocean accessible to almost every one of the many farmhouses that dot the land.

No more than 25 minutes pass since taking off until we land on a water strip right in the center of town. With not much time left until the start of our tour, we skip an after-flight cup of cappuccino at one of the many coffee shops around, and instead rush straight to the tour exit point near Fisherman’s Wharf. Call me naïve, but having bought a packaged tour, I presumed Fisherman’s Wharf would be right next to where we landed. Big mistake. The location is 1.5km west of the town’s center. With an unusually warm and sunny morning, we get to Orca Spirit Adventures’ office 15 minutes later, sweaty and breathless.

Whale watching

Orca Spirit Adventures Whale Watching, 146 Kingston Street, Victoria. www.orcaspirit.com +1 250 383 8411

Several companies in Victoria operate whale watching excursions. We picked Orca Spirit only because they were included in the package. Do not worry, though; all the other companies operate pretty much the same boats and go to the same places. You only need to choose a larger boat or a more nimble and intimate Zodiac. With the Straits of Juan de Fuca’s reputation for occasional gales, we chose comfort over speed. Looking back, I think we chose nicely.

Victoria town marks the north edge of this large body of water that separates Canada from the US. Extending east from the Pacific Ocean between Vancouver Island to the north and the Olympic Peninsula to the south, the 150km channel connects both Seattle and Vancouver City to the Pacific Ocean. It is also a prime location for whale watching, with the best season being June to October. With some luck and good weather, we will be able to see both Humpback whales and Orca (Killer) whales. The website says: “While Orcas can be seen year-round, this period is best for Humpbacks as they are actively feeding before their winter migration”.

We set off for our three-hour tour, hoping to see some ocean life. Curiously, the warm, sunny day turns cold and windy as soon as we clear the last breakwater and head into the open sea. At least it’s still sunny. The crisp air and clear visibility reveal a beautiful panorama of the entire Olympic mountain range and the US coast to the south. It takes us about 40-ish minutes to get to the main “hunting grounds”, somewhere in the middle of the straits, where others are already patrolling. We join them and soon hit a bonanza!

Thinking back on the experience, it seems almost stupid. All that time, pain, and money, to see a bunch of marine mammals swimming in the ocean. But when you’re there in real time, the experience is nothing short of exhilarating. Why? I have no good explanation. The fact remains that we saw dozens of Orcas (or was it just a few Orcas we saw dozens of times?), seals, and humpbacks. Three hours later, we returned with a silly grin that no misfortune could ever erase. So, there you have it.

With an additional four hours to kill before our flight back, we explored Victoria town, starting with our mooring spot on Fisherman’s Warf.

Victoria town

Like Albany to New York State, the small town of Victoria, not Vancouver, is the Capital of British Columbia. The city of about 90 thousand inhabitants isn’t even on the mainland. Based on the southernmost corner of Vancouver Island, it feels small and strangely European, almost to the point of being a Disney Neverland. The grand parliament house, dating from the late 19th century, next to the Empress Hotel, built around the same time, gives off a vibe of Vienna. Or, perhaps, a Vienna with many Indian Totems and palm trees scattered around…

Which brings me to the topic of palm trees. You see, Victoria’s climate is Mediterranean. Yes, that’s not a typo. At a latitude of 49⁰ North, this could be the northernmost city in the world to have it. It is undoubtedly the only Canadian place to enjoy mild, rainy winters and warm, dry summers. Suddenly, the unusually warm and sunny morning we experienced earlier no longer seems that unusual. Victoria enjoys the rain shadow effect of the nearby Olympic Mountains. It is the driest location on the entire Pacific Northwest coast of the North American continent. Don’t worry, though, “dry” is a relative term. The place is still very green, but perhaps not as wet as Vancouver City, only 100km to the northeast. Come to think about it, British Columbia’s founders were smart in picking Victoria as a capital.

Back to Fisherman’s Wharf

We disembark right next to Victoria’s most gaudy attraction. Painted in vibrant colors, as if taken straight out of a Looney Tunes cartoon after a session of ‘shrooms, Fisherman’s Warf is a purely touristic – and so are we. We make the most of it by ordering hefty portions of deep-fried fish’n’chips, and then seek an available parasol. Red Shrimps are great. Red sunburns are not. Honestly, the place has good vibes and is fun to hang around. Just don’t take it too seriously on the “authentic experience” scale.

With thirst and hunger sorted out, we lumber back to the city center.  There, we head to the Royal British Columbia Museum on the corner of Belleville and Government. The modern building lies between the grand Parliament building and the imposing Empress Hotel. The difference between these two 19th-century monuments and the museum couldn’t be bigger. Speaking of big, the museum is quite large and fascinating. There’s an IMAX theater, a floor dedicated to British Columbia’s natural history, another for its first inhabitants, and another for daily life in 1,800’s Victoria town. You can rush it in an hour, or take it leisurely, like we did, and spend a good two hours. Either way, this one’s recommended.

Royal BC Museum, 675 Belleville Street, Victoria. www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca +1 250 356 7226. Tickets $30 CAD Adult, $17 CAD Youth. 

With some time to spare, we hang around downtown, browsing the tourist shops and cafes. Like the city, downtown is a compact area within a short walking distance from the Empress Hotel. Continue to walk up Government Street until you pass Wharf Street. When you reach Pandora Street, turn around.

Exhausted, but in a good way, we complete the short hike back to the same warf we disembarked that morning. Our plane had already been moored by the time we got there. After a few minutes of paperwork, we boarded the seaplane. Flying about the gorgeous Straits of Georgia, and ending with a course above Vancouver before landing next to the cruise ship terminal at Canada Center. Did I mention that Vancouver is beautiful from the air?

8. Take a cruise ship to Alaska.

We did. You should, too. More about this in a future post.