The complete driver’s guide to the Black Forest – Part I

8 ESSENTIAL TIPS & 7  ROADS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS

Ever since my first time driving through the Black Forest I have been frequently asked by friends and colleagues to share the secrets and know-how I gathered driving through this exceptional place. After much persuasion, I’ve finally decided to put my knowledge base into writing.
Enjoy!

The Black Forest, not so black

Nestled in the South Western corner of Germany, the Black Forest has recently become a popular family destination. It’s not hard to understand why; despite the slightly ominous name, the “Schwartzwald” is a fun and safe place to keep the kids busy and their parents happy. It combines natural beauty with German efficiency, has lots of attractions, a depreciated Euro, and friendly locals to help you on your way.

But there’s another side to the Black Forest. I’m tempted to say “a darker side” though it really isn’t. The 130 Kilometers (85 Miles) between Baden-Baden and the Swiss border is a true driver’s nirvana.

With more than a thousand Kilometers of great driving roads, little traffic (if you know where and when to go – see tips), and few and short connecting sections, the 6,000 Sq. Km (2,300 Sq. Miles) area is a wonderful motor-head playground – probably Europe’s best.

For part II of the Schwartzwald complete driver’s guide click below:
*  Back to Black –  Black Forest’s The complete driver’s guide – Part II

Other great driver’s guide you shouldn’t miss:
*   The complete driver’s guide to the Austrian Alps
*   Israel’s top 10 hill climbs
*   6 essential rules you must know before doing Nepal off-road
*   Crazy, pointless, irresistible
*   The world’s best corporate day
*   Scouting Malibu on an Indian
*   Steeper than ‘Frisco, zanier than NYC 

Is it really that good?

Some of you may ask “what about the famous Alpine passes?”
For which I’ll say, forget Stelvio Pass. Forget Tirol and the Dolomites. Forget also Route Napoleon and the Costa Amalfitana. They all look great on a Top Gear episode. In real life, however, these over-hyped roads are often over-crowded and over-policed with bikes, bicycles and other motorists, all elbowing for space on the same twisty, sometimes broken, tarmac (Hahntennjoch Pass in Austria is a notable exception). And, should you be so lucky and find yourself all alone climbing the Stelvio, you’ll also find it ends pretty quickly leaving you with the option of going back or continue through a long and less entertaining connecting route.

The Black Forest has none of this. What it does have in plenty are interconnecting, never-ending, well-paved, twisty, unjammed, great and challenging driving roads.

But to make the most out of this “Drivefest”, there are few rules to abide by and few tips you must know before venturing out. After all, getting back home in one piece is part of the fun.

With that said, let’s start with the most obvious yet frequently ignored tip.

Tip #1: Know what you’re doing

So you’re driving on an unfamiliar public road in an unfamiliar rented car – what can go wrong?…

Unlike the world-famous Autobahn, the black forest has few straight stretches and even fewer safety barriers. Mastering them requires skill, concentration, patience and responsibility. If your “kick” is to max your speedometer on an empty, wide stretch – look elsewhere.

Know and acknowledge your limits as a driver BEFORE going out into the woods. Remember that you are driving on a public road – not a racetrack, and that each blind curve may hold a nasty surprise behind it. As a matter of fact ASSUME there’s a nasty surprise behind each blind curve, and you’ve already increased your chances of coming back home safely.

Since you’ll likely be driving a rented car (see tip #3) take your time to get yourself familiarized with your vehicle’s handling dynamics and other ticks and quirks. Smoking your tires as you leave the rental shop will likely land you in a tree a bit later on – if you’re lucky. Same will happen if you start letting your ego write checks your skills can’t pay. Don’t race anyone. There will always be someone faster than you. This is one competition in which you can only loose – car, limbs, life. The tree I was mentioning before? That’s the good case. If you’re less lucky you might land into another vehicle and your broken body into a hospital, where the German Police might have few hard questions to ask you.

Drive smart or lawyer up.

Of course, there’s the option of your siblings taking care of all these hassels while you are haggling your way to heaven with the Archangels above.

Enough said.

Tip #2: Know the unwritten rules of the Black Forest roads

More simply put – don’t be a schmuck!

Overall the folks in the Black Forest like motorists and, as many other Germans, hold especially warm corner for enthusiastic ones. You’ll see many ultra sports bikes on the road or parked in small towns next to a Café – hobnobbing with the locals. You’ll also see many motor clubs coming from all over Europe passing through towns and villages collecting nothing but smiles and cheers.

Don’t ruin it.

Like many other things in Germany, even fast driving has its own etiquette. Ignore it and you’ll find smiles can quickly turn to anger, and anger can quickly turn into a Traffic Police Officer waiting just for you few Kilometers ahead.

Urban etiquette

The general rule is you should drive slowly, quietly and carefully next to populated areas – and that also mean stopping to let old ladies cross the road. Nobody loves douchebags redlining their screaming engines as they zoom past their carefully manicured houses.

And since Germans like to quantify almost everything, here is exactly what you should do;
As you are nearing a populated place take note of the of the speed limit signs starting with 70kph going to 50kps and down to as low as 30kph in the center of the village. Lift your foot off the pedal, up shift two gears to let the revs go down and do not exceed the specified speed limit. Speed cameras – not a common site in the Black Forest – are sometimes placed just outside populated areas to make sure you abide. As you exit the village, look for the speed signs again. Once you left the 70kph zone, feel free to lower a gear or two and find out how much force is needed to glue that right pedal to the floor.

Also, if you see faster drivers behind you, find the first reasonable opportunity and let them pass. You don’t want to mess up with an angry and vengeful 911GT3 or a BMW M2 driver. Treat them the same way you would like other slower drivers to treat you. By the way, slower local drivers are often fantastic, letting you pass quickly and safely.
God bless’em.

Tip #3: Pick the car that’s right for you

Unless you’re driving over with your own car, renting one is not the dreary, boring, awful thing it used to be. To start with, many ordinary modern cars are not such bad things to drive anymore. Renting a regular gasoline powered Volkswagen Golf, with a manual or a double-clutch gearbox would deliver lots of fun while keeping you relatively safe. Simply put, you do not need to press the “Ludicrous Speed” button to have real fun.

Here’s a real personal story: a few years ago we were driving a small section of the Black Forest with a Porsche 911GTS behind our support vehicle – a lowly 7-seater Opel Zafira – driven by a good friend and a great driver. While I emerged out of the 911 slightly bored, my friend in the Zafira was having the time of his life. It was the widest grin I’ve seen in many years. Speed, in other words, is just one factor of many.

Never the less if you are experienced enough, or just have a knack for seriously fast cars (and have read and agreed to all the warnings and disclosures above), today’s ordinary mass rental companies in Germany offer some fascinating options.

F-Type anyone?

Avis Prestige works in partnership with Porsche and will rent you a brand new, fully loaded 911 or even the smaller and more fun to drive 718 (Previously known as Boxter) for 200 to 250Eur a day (with 200Km daily limit plus one Euro for each additional Kilometer).
Hertz Dream Collection has a similar program with Jaguar for the achingly beautiful and seriously fast F-Type. Prices start at 250Eur, 250Km a day and 0.8 Euro for each additional Km. Sixt offers a wide range of mouth dropping BMW M cars, Jag F-Types and other desirables in prices that are hard to believe – if you book enough time in advance and aim for low season (which you should – see tip #4).

My own favorite is the Boxter S (718 since 2016). The 911 Carrera S is my second choice (Skip the heavier Convertible for the Coupe. Get the 2S or GTS for greater thrills or grab the 4S for better safety if conditions are damp). Third comes Sixt’s M4 (If they happen to have the new M2 grab that one first), followed by the Jaguar F-Type (get the Coupe as the beautiful convertible has virtually zero luggage space).

Please note that prices and model range may change – and they do change. Be sure to inquire first.

Saner options wanted

If you were wondering what happened to all the great hot hatches, you’re not the only one. Golf GTI, Mini Cooper S, Ford Fiesta ST and Renault Megan RS are all great options for anyone looking for a serious driving experience without sacrificing a serious amount of cash. You’d expect an international rental company with a collection of semi-exotics to also carry these more sensible choices. The reality is that for some reason they don’t. If you do happen to locate a Golf GTI at one of the major rental agencies, grab it! And let us know…

Finally, if you just can’t let your fantasies (or ego) go unanswered, specialized small rental agencies would be happy to rent you the best exotica (a lot of) money can buy. Be sure though to carefully read the fine print on the contract before signing or you may find out the arm and the leg you paid up front were just the beginning. No worries, you can always sell a Kidney or send your kids to work in the diamond mines of Central Africa.

Tip #4: Avoid High Summers and Mid-Winters

Love to be backlogged behind a long line of minivans piloted by tired, nerve-racked parents with multiple screaming kids in the backseat?

If you do, July and August are just the ideal months for you. All rest be warned. The Black Forest in summers – and especially its Southern and more touristic part – can be a frustrating experience.

September & October are much better choices with relatively empty roads and an extensive selection of available B&Bs (“Zimmers” as Germans call them) to park your head and car after a hard day of work behind the wheel. Weekends are even better taking commercial traffic out of the equation. April to June is great too though June can surprise with unpleasant 37 degrees (100 F) heat waves. Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

Winters are not ideal – to say the least – with snowy roads, blocked passageways and lots of ice. Need I say more?

Tip #5: Bring a Map. A REAL map

Remember those colorful paper things we used up to about a decade ago? It’s time to refresh your memory, as no other mean of navigation delivers the same effective results.

Here is why:

1. Modern online navigation systems are great at bringing you to the place you want to go, but none can really help you out if you don’t exactly know WHERE you want to go. Spreading a paper map over your hood/bonnet or a coffee table in one of the many (and excellent) bakeries along the way will help you see the bigger picture and plan your day ahead.
2. None of the popular mobile or onboard navigation systems contain the type of information you need – chiefly the type of road and a number of houses spread along the way (if you don’t know why the latter is important, read tip #2 again). The online Michelin map available at
   viamichelin.com is the only one I know that comes close but…
3. 3G/4G data coverage is surprisingly scattered and unreliable. Blame it on the topography or the business priorities of German telcos. The fact is you may find yourself cut off at the very moment you need your Goggle Maps the most.

Do yourself a favor. Get a Schwartzwald map. It only cost about 5Eur and is available at almost every gas station. Thank me later.

*** this is THE most important tip ***

I’m dead serious. Knowing how to use a Schwartzwald map and apply it correctly is the most important tip I can give you.

First, look for yellow marked roads (I know its sounds like something out of The Wizard of Oz, but it is what it is). It’s not that the Orange marked roads are necessarily bad, it’s just that the Black Forest thoroughfares tend to carry more traffic and sometimes require speeds that are way too fast for comfort (see tip #8).

Second, look for house marks on the map. The less, the better. Avoid roads where house marks (even few ones) are spread throughout the road. It will mean you’ll be driving most of the time in urban mode (see tip #2).

Tip #6: The weather can grow sour. You shouldn’t

It could happen. The weather has turned just too bad. You’re too tired and need a day off. You returned your rental and have a day to burn until the flight back home. You crashed your rental and all the liquor stores are shut.

Whatever the reason, the area around the Black Forrest has some world-class motor attractions. I’ve condensed here the three best I know. You’re more than welcome to add yours to the list:

1. Porsche Museum – Stuttgart. Open every day except Mondays. Need a reason? You’re probably reading the wrong post.
2. Mercedes Museum – Stuttgart (yes, same city). Open every day except Mondays. For a reason to visit, read “Porsche Museum” section above.
3. Collection Schlumpf – Mulhouse, France. Open every day. Mondays too. Just a short drive over to the other side of the Rhine lies the largest, most amazing classic car collection in the world. Period.
   104 Bugatti including three of the six existing Royale. An extensive line up of Grand Prix cars from the 1930’s till today. The museum also carries all classic Rolls Royces, Mercedes, Maybach, Hispano-Suiza, the list goes on and on. You can spend a whole day and not manage to see them all.

Tip #7: Don’t waste your time on Baden-Baden

If you happen to suffer from rheumatism or have passed the age of 65 you can disregard anything written below.

Baden-Baden is an elegant spa town for civilized pensioners and their seldom used Ferraris. It also marks the beginning of the famous Route B500 and the northern entry point to the Black Forest. In terms of points of interest, there are only two good reasons to stop in the town:

1. Most key rental agencies have shops in Baden-Baden. For many this will be the place to pick up and return the car.
2. The first (and best) section of the B500 starts where Baden-Baden ends, which brings us to tip #8…

Tip #8: The B500 is not the great driving road many are raving about

The B500 is the main North-South thoroughfare of the Black Forest. Riding on the top of the main ridge, the B500 can be best described as a spine from which driving roads snake their way down to the valleys below.

Although some rank it as one of Europe’s top 10 roads, I tend to disagree. Excluding the first amazing 10 kilometers climbing out from Baden-Baden  to the top of the ridge (Watch out of the permanent speed camera immediately after the last house), the B500 has just too many things working against it.

1. Much of the B500 is a relatively open road of fast sweepers. To do these properly, you’ll find yourself pushing up to speeds better suited to an empty autobahn. It’s one thing to lose control on a twisty B road. It’s another thing altogether to lose your car flying at speeds I dare not mention. And that’s just the beginning. Read on.
2. As a connecting thoroughfare, the B500 has all the surprises of the wrong kind; unexpected traffic lights, pedestrian crossing, car parks, intersections all coming straight at you in random order, sometimes immediately after a blind sweeper.
   Remember Ludicrous Speed?
   Try Ludicrous Panic Braking!

Besides, if you are hooked to fast sweepers or are just another biker with a death wish, the section below have some better options to consider.

THE ROUTES

Route #1 – The Northern. Total 21.5km

Starting at the junction of B500 and L84 – just outside of Baden-Baden – continue on B500 South for 10km and turn left at the junction with L83 (Sand) down to the junction with B462 (Raumunzach).

This a great way to start your Black Forest experience. It combines hill climbing through the superbly paved B500 and then descending through a mix of tight curves and fast sweepers of the L83 all the way down. The first 10km section of the B500 are marvelous, with an excellent combination of curves, tarmac, and visibility. Descending through the L83 completes a wonderful warm up experience (with zero urban areas as a very nice bonus). From the junction of B462 you can either backtrack your way up through the L83 to the B500, or take a detour through a more narrow (and difficult) road – L80B – by turning left about a kilometer up on your way back through the L83.

Red Flags:

• The junction between B500 and L83 can be tricky with cars and pedestrians crossing.
• Three-quarters on the way down the L83 there’s a reservoir and a dam. Watch out for the large parking area to the right as you approach the dam, and prepare for a full stop. Expect multiple cars and pedestrians to cross the road.
• The junction with B462 can come as a surprise after a series of sharp turns. Be alert.

Route #2 – The Small Loop. Total 38km

From B500 turn right to road 5370 towards Oppenau. The best way to locate the road is to look for the turn left from the B500 to Baiersbronn (L401) and turn the opposite way. Drive downhill for the next 19km until you reach the village. While remembering to go easy in a populated area, turn left at Oppenau to L92 and drive uphill for the next 9km until you reconnect with B500. Turn left on the B500 to drive back 10km to where you started and complete the loop, or turn right to move on.

This is a classic Black Forest combination of a slow, technical and narrow road (5370), faster hill climb (L92), and a fast connecting throughway (remember the disclaimers about the B500, right?). The short loop contains other classic elements including significant gradients – from 1,000m to 300m and back – and some vistas to view (should you care about those things). It also serves as an excellent preparation to the biggest playing ground in the entire area.

Route #3 – The Middle Playing Ground. Total 51km

This area is made of two separate sections connected through a short segment of the B500.

Section 1: Driving south on the B500, turn left to B28 (Direction Freudenstadt and drive 2km to the village of Kniebis where you’ll turn right into L96 and the start of the 1st section. Drive down the L96 about 8km until you reach the town of Bad Rippoldsau. Turn left in the center of the town to L404. Drive for 16km and turn right to L405. Drive another 8km until your reach Schomberg. Make a U-Turn. When you reach Kniebis you can choose to repeat or move to the next section.

Section 2: Turn right on the B500 to B28 (Direction Oberkirch) and start a 7km hairpin section that will end in Bad Griesbach. Follow the B28 for a slow urban part of 4km until you reach Bad Peterstal where you’ll turn left into L93 (Direction Wolfach). Do the 12km of the L93 until it ends in a T-Junction with the L96. From there either return to do the section in the opposite direction or turn left and ride the L96 for 7km until it reaches Bad Rippoldsau and section 1.

This is where things pick up. Do this right and you just might find yourself lost in time with smoking breaks and no fuel (Gas stations are available on the B28). The sections contain almost everything a driving enthusiast can wish for.

Section 1

Begins with a downhill combination of sweepers and hairpins. After leaving the town via L404 the road climbs again in a series of marvelous, never-ending twists of various speeds. The later section is quite fast and you’ll need to break hard in order not to miss the turn to L405. The L405 is a different story altogether – a fast and narrow road that snakes between the dense trees. When you reach Schomberg stop to regain your breath, turn back and redo the whole thing again and again…

Red Flags

The L405 isn’t cut for everyone. It has few surprises, so better start slow.  A lonely yet popular bar/restaurant lies about a third of the way and may surprise drivers not familiar with the road. Further on an intersection about halfway can cause some unwanted surprises. Narrow, fast, surrounded by beautiful and dense Fauna, and with no safety barriers what-so-ever, the L405 requires concentration skill and responsibility.

 

Section 2

The section starts with a narrow and twisty L93 (you can drive it either way) up a ridge and then twists down to the valley below. This road is relatively empty, very technical and slow, yet extremely rewarding if you do it right. After a 4 km connecting section of L28, pass the village of Bad Griesbach and start a steep climb full of wide, well-paved hairpins. Some say that if you happen to drive a rear-wheel powered car and can find the electronic stability control button, you can pretty much drift your way through. All we can say is that you never heard this from us!

Red Flags

The L93 is narrow and sections of the tarmac can be rather patchy. Although the road is relatively empty, technical and slow, it still can occasionally surprise with oncoming traffic. Bring this to mind before attacking a blind curve.

Route #4: The Big Detour. Total 28km

Drive down the B33 and turn right on L107 towards Ober Prechtal. Drive 13km until you reach the village and turn left to L109 for 15km until you get to the town of Schonach. Continue on the L109 until you reconnect with the B500 at Triberg.

This is another classic Schwartzwald fun section starting with a beautifully paved and relatively wide twisty climb through the forest. At the top, the road opens up with a beautiful view of the valley and the town below. This downhill section is faster but dotted with few occasional houses and driveways. Handle with care. When you reach town center turn left into another section of scattered houses which will soon diminish leaving you with an impressive wooded zigzag of left and right sweepers running through the remaining narrow bottom of the valley. After navigating a relatively wide hairpin continue up the winding road to Schonbach. Remember Borat’s grin? Don’t look at yourself in the mirror when you get to Schonbach. You might find an alarming resemblance.

Route #5: B500 Substitute. Total 18km

From the main road (B31) connecting Freiburg and Titisee turn to L126 (direction Todtnau) and drive for 5km until you pass the village of Oberried and exit urban area. Continue 18km until you reach Todtnau.

For those of you looking for faster roads with somewhat less nasty surprises and traffic, the L126 is a great alternative to the B500. Despite the “L” at the beginning, this is a wide open road with some very nice fast curves, good visibility, fewer intersections, fewer resting areas, and somewhat less congestion. Should you have enough, you can always cut in the middle to road L124 – a 21km technical “L” road with sharp turns and the works (could be congested at times).

Red Flag

The Hangloch Waterfalls – a main Black Forest attractions – lies about three Kilometers before Todtnau. Expect many cars to park on the side of the road and surprise you at exactly the wrong time. The section lies between two sharp hairpins. Prepare to stop if needed.

Route #6: The Scenic. Total 26km 

Drive south from Todtnau towards Todtmoos. 6km after leaving Todtnau turn right at the fork to L151. Pass the Village of Prag (immediately after the fork) and continue on L151 for 11km. When you reach Todtmoos, continue south and after 2kn turn right to L148 and drive 16km to Wehr.

The beauty and the beast. The inspiring and demanding. Call it what you want. This route packs both dazzling natural beauty with some hardcore driving. As you pass Prag, the roads start to climb sharply with a very nice stretch of twisty tarmac. Getting over the crest (and should you care to stop) you’ll bear witness to the beautiful valley of Todtmoos below. Continue down the mountain to Todtmoos. The following segment is a remarkable road that traverses a very narrow and steep gorge, huddled between sheer cliffs and a gushing river. Once you reach Wehr near the Swiss border, turn back and do the climb.

Red Flags

• Watch out for the sharp rock curb as you climb from Prag. Some can protrude in the middle of a turn. Cut the apex to tightly and you might hit one and blow a tire.
• Watch out of fallen rocks in the mid-section of the L148.

Route #7: The Ultimate Driving Experience. Total 23km

Yes, I saved the best for last. A true stage that will leave you breathless!

Drive the L170 southwest of Bonndorf for 4km or, drive the same L170 east of Schluchsee for 12km (both sections are very nice driving roads in their own right). Turn to L159 – direction Tiengen. Drive 23km to Tiengen. Turn back. Drive 23km to the L170 junction. Turn back and drive 23km to Tiengen. Refuel. Repeat…

THE best road the Black Forest has to offer. Endless twists and turns of all shapes and sizes – one after the other in a continuous flow. If that isn’t enough, the L159 registers only sparse traffic (much of which is made up of Swiss motorcyclists doing the exact thing you’re doing), three tiny villages, and one forgotten intersection. It really gets no better than this. The road ends in Tiengen where you’ll find a small Cafe and Pizzeria. The coffee is mediocre and so is the Pizza, but you’ll need the rest and so will your car. Refuel and turn back. Watch the time. It can get dark after few hours… 🙂

Red Flags

• Climbing from Tiengen, the L159 starts off with fast section leading to the tiny village of Detzeln. Resist the obvious urge to just zoom past the few houses. If you are wondering why, refer to “Urban Etiquette” at the top of the page. Besides, some swear a portable speed camera is waiting at the entrance.
• Motorcyclists like to frequent the L159, especially on weekends. Driving hard and well, you may find yourself pushing substantially faster than them. The reason is that a car breaks harder and turn faster than any motorcycle. With hardly any straight sections in which a bike can utilize its superior acceleration, the L159 is built for four wheelers. Be cautious and careful if and when overtaking. Motorcyclists are not used to cars passing them.
• The very top section of the L159 – just before it intersects with the L170 – comes immediately after a fast section and can confuse. Remember to break and look for a few sharp turns or risk flying into the grass.

For part II of the Schwartzwald complete driver’s guide click below:
*  Back to Black –  Black Forest’s The complete driver’s guide – Part II

Other great driver’s guide you shouldn’t miss:
*   The complete driver’s guide to the Austrian Alps
*   Israel’s top 10 hill climbs
*   6 essential rules you must know before doing Nepal off-road
*   Crazy, pointless, irresistible
*   The world’s best corporate day
*   Scouting Malibu on an Indian
*   Steeper than ‘Frisco, zanier than NYC 

Know other great Black Forest roads?
Use the comment section below.

Thanks!